If there is one delicacy that has stood the test of time in Igbo kitchens, it is stockfish, fondly called okporoko. It is a type of unsalted, dried fish, most commonly cod, preserved by air-drying on racks without salt.
Whether it’s the rich aroma that escapes from a simmering pot of egusi soup or the chewy bite that elevates a plate of onugbu (bitterleaf soup), stockfish has earned a special place in the hearts — and on the tables — of the Igbo people. But why exactly do the Igbos love this dry, imported fish so much? The answer lies in a fascinating blend of history, culture, nutrition, and prestige.
A TASTE ROOTED IN HISTORY
Stockfish is not indigenous to Nigeria; it comes from Norway, where cod is air-dried in the open. The Portuguese first introduced it through trade, but it was during the colonial era that stockfish became a household staple in Eastern Nigeria. Its durability made it ideal for long journeys across seas and roads without spoiling, unlike fresh fish that could not survive the humid climate.
For the Igbo people, stockfish became more than a substitute — it was a blessing. Even during the Biafran War (1967–1970), when food scarcity reached devastating levels, stockfish was one of the relief items provided to starving communities. That experience left an imprint: stockfish was no longer just food; it was survival.
CULINARY MAGIC: THE FLAVOR THAT TRANSFORMS SOUPS
Ask any Igbo cook, and they will tell you: stockfish is not just fish; it is flavor. Its unique aroma and chewy texture enrich local soups like Ofe Nsala, Ofe Owerri, Bitterleaf Soup, and Egusi Soup. Without stockfish, many Igbo soups feel incomplete — as though something vital is missing.
Beyond taste, stockfish adds a special balance. Its firmness contrasts beautifully with soft vegetables, tender meats, and rich broths, giving every spoonful a delightful complexity.
A SYMBOL OF STATUS AND PRESTIGE
In Igbo tradition, food is not just for eating — it is for showing love, respect, and hospitality. Serving a guest soup with stockfish is a silent statement of generosity. In fact, certain prized parts of the stockfish, like the cod head (okporoko isi), are considered delicacies reserved for esteemed guests.
At weddings, funerals, and festive gatherings, the presence of stockfish is almost a given. It elevates the meal, signaling that the host has gone the extra mile.
NUTRITION THAT NOURISHES GENERATIONS
Beyond flavor and status, stockfish is a powerhouse of nutrition. Packed with protein, calcium, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin D, it has long served as a valuable alternative to meat, especially in communities where livestock was scarce or expensive.
For growing children, it is nourishment. For adults, it is strength. And for elders, it is health. In many ways, stockfish has quietly supported the Igbo diet for generations.
MORE THAN FOOD: A CULTURAL IDENTITY
Over time, stockfish stopped being just an imported product from Norway and became an Igbo identity marker. Today, no Igbo celebration feels complete without it. Traders in markets like Onitsha and Aba have even built entire businesses around stockfish importation, making it not only a food staple but also an economic lifeline.
It is a fascinating twist of history: what began as a foreign delicacy has been fully naturalized into Igbo life. Stockfish is now as Igbo as yam or palm oil.
The Igbo love affair with stockfish is a story of resilience, taste, prestige, and cultural pride. It connects the past with the present, reminding us of survival during hard times, the joy of rich flavors, and the pride of hospitality.
So, the next time you savor a steaming bowl of egusi soup with that unmistakable bite of okporoko, remember: you are not just eating fish. You are tasting history, culture, and tradition on a plate.
-Jamiu Abubakar
(08085185886)
